Happy farmer compost3/27/2023 You don’t need books, thermometers, fancy compost bins, kelp, microbial inoculants, or master composter classes (yes, this is a thing). Pro Tip: Always locate compost piles away from the beating sun and areas where rainwater collects, 6) Stick to the Basics and Stay Away from the GimmicksĬomposting success is a matter of getting the feel of your pile and fine-tuning it by adjusting the ratio of greens and browns. This is because the nitrogen-rich materials, which are generally moist, are perfectly balanced with dry carbon-rich materials when combined in the 30 to 1 ratio. But if you maintain a thick outer layer of carbon-rich material, which helps to prevent rain from soaking into the pile and moisture from evaporating out of the pile, conditions inside should stay just right – as long as you have the ratio. Many composting websites will tell you to water your pile in dry weather and cover it in wet weather to keep the rain out. The perfect compost pile is like a rung-out sponge – moist, but not soggy. Pro Tip: This outer layer of carbon won’t readily decompose, so just strip it away once the interior part of the pile has turned into dark, crumbly compost and use it as an ingredient in your next pile. You can think of this almost as a covering, with the composting activity occurring below pull it back each time you had a new layer of compost materials. Extra leaves, straw, and grass clippings, especially when used on the outside of the pile, reduce odor and improve aesthetics. The worst that can happen is it takes longer to decompose. ![]() In general, it’s best to err on the side of too much carbon in a compost pile. Pro Tip: Always add nitrogen sources (manure, kitchen scraps) in thin layers, not little piles, so that all the material is in contact with carbon-rich browns. A good rule of thumb is that each time you add a batch of nitrogen-rich ingredients, add roughly 4 times that amount in carbon-rich ingredients (in volume, not weight). In general, carbon-rich materials should form the bulk of the pile. When the ratio is higher than ideal (too much carbon), the pile will be dry and very slow to decompose simply add nitrogen. When the ratio is lower than ideal (too much nitrogen), the pile will be slimy and stinky simply add carbon. ![]() There is no need to get out your calculator to know whether you’re striking the right balance carbon-nitrogen balance. Pro Tip: Check out this handy list of the carbon-nitrogen ratio for various compost ingredients to get a general sense of how much of each to incorporate into your pile. Any pile of organic matter (translation: this means formerly living things, including all compost ingredients) will eventually decompose and feed the soil, but when the ratio of carbon to nitrogen in a compost pile approaches 30 to 1, the decomposition process rapidly accelerates as “thermophilic” bacteria move in and the pile heats up to over 160 degrees Fahrenheit. The magic that is composting rests on the interaction between carbon compounds (browns) and nitrogen compounds (greens). ![]() 2) Striking the Right Carbon-Nitrogen Balance Pro Tip: Always start a new compost pile with a fluffy layer of browns on the bottom (at least 6 to 8 inches deep) to absorb moisture from the pile and keep things well-aerated, thus avoiding cesspool conditions. You’re going to need at least one source of each for your pile. Nitrogen-rich “greens,” on the other hand, include fresh leaves, fresh grass clippings, and vegetable scraps the name is a bit of a misnomer, however, as manure, a very nitrogen-rich substance, is also included in the green camp. ![]() The carbon camp is often referred to as “browns,” because it include things like dried leaves, dried grass clippings, cardboard, and straw. There are two main ingredients in any successful compost pile: carbon-rich ingredients and nitrogen-rich ingredients.
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